Blanketing your horse: Winter time is blanket time?

We've all been there: in the fall, many horse owners ask themselves whether it's time to cover their horses. As the temperatures drop and the horses' winter coats begin to grow, this step becomes particularly important. But when should horses be tucked in and for which horses does it make sense? This article is intended to provide information on exactly that.

Horses with little hair in particular should be covered from a certain point onwards. More robust horse breeds such as Haflingers, various ponies, Fjord horses and Icelanders often manage without winter rugs as they have natural protective mechanisms against adverse weather conditions. On the other hand, blanketing is particularly relevant for horses in sporting activities with thinner coats. 

Clipped horses should always be covered, as they lack the protective undercoat. As they no longer have a long coat to protect them from the cold, blankets are essential for them. Older horses also generally need a blanket, as their immune system is no longer as robust as that of young horses. In addition, the natural mechanisms for heat production dwindle in older horses due to reduced movement and muscle atrophy. Old horses can also suffer from metabolic disorders and dental problems that affect their food intake. As a result, they have less energy available for thermoregulation.

Why do horses wear blankets in winter?

There are numerous opinions circulating on the internet that argue against covering horses, as this can allegedly impair the horse's ability to thermoregulate. The optimum feel-good temperature for horses is between 5°C and 15°C outside. The core temperature of their body is constantly around 38°C and they are able to maintain this temperature even when external temperatures fluctuate. Thermoregulation refers to how the horse independently regulates its body temperature. Horses use mechanisms such as sweating and the dilation of blood vessels in their skin to cool their bodies. You can also learn all about sweating in horses in this video:

This natural mechanism also ensures that the horse's surface blood circulation is reduced in cold or windy environments. It prevents a drop in body temperature, which prevents potential damage to the organism.

Basically, horses are naturally well adapted to different temperatures, often better than humans. An important aspect of thermoregulation in horses is the way their coat changes with the seasons. When horses need to warm up their bodies, the muscles at the hair follicles pull up the coat, creating an insulating air cushion that protects against the cold. In addition, the subcutaneous fatty tissue can effectively insulate against the cold. Horses with good insulating properties can be recognized in winter by the fact that snow remains on their coat without melting. The horse's thick winter coat provides impressive natural insulation. If you place your hand in a horse's winter coat, you can immediately feel how efficiently heat is stored between the hairs and the air cushion underneath. Shearing and covering a horse partially removes this natural ability. In principle, this is not wrong, but there are still situations in which it can make sense to cover the horse.

When is blanketing necessary?

Blanketing a horse becomes necessary, especially if the horse has been clipped. This step is often taken if the horse has an excessively thick coat or regularly undergoes intensive training during which it sweats.

Coating is also important for horses that have already reached an advanced age or have health restrictions. Horses with metabolic disorders often have difficulties with shedding. They develop an excessive amount of coat and therefore need a considerable amount of time to shed it. If such horses are not clipped, efficient organization with sweat rugs is necessary to ensure that the horse can quickly return to the stable or paddock dry. For clipped horses it is advisable to put blankets on to prevent colds.

In many cases, the natural thermoregulation of older or sick horses no longer functions adequately. In such situations, blanketing is also a sensible consideration. If horses are exposed to different weather conditions, putting on a blanket can also be a useful support.

The decision as to whether a horse should be covered must be made on a case-by-case basis and does not necessarily mean that blankets should be rejected in principle.

Types of horse rugs and their use

The choice of horse rugs is impressive - from inexpensive to expensive options, from thin to thick rugs, rain-repellent to bite-resistant. It's easy to lose track. It is therefore advisable to make a few considerations before buying a horse rug: What requirements should my horse blanket fulfill? Regardless of the model chosen, the rug should be clean, only belong to one horse and, above all, fit perfectly. Poorly fitting rugs can cause pressure points and chafing, which are extremely uncomfortable for the horse.

Every horse owner should have a sweat rug, even if the horse is not normally covered. This thin and breathable rug provides thermal protection when the horse has sweated and dries slowly. It transports moisture to the outside while keeping the horse warm on the inside. 

For certain horses, such as sick or emaciated animals, breeds from warm countries and clipped horses, it is necessary to cover them with a stable rug in cool temperatures. 

In spring, when there is no more frost, a thinner transition rug is often used, which is light and very practical, and a warmer under rug at night. This adaptation is beneficial for the horse's well-being, as it can sweat with its rug in the sunshine and double-digit temperatures. Overheating and colic are possible risks if the horse becomes overheated.

Regardless of the thickness of the rug and the model, it is important to look for a waterproof (for paddock horses), tear-resistant outer coating and a good fit. High-quality rugs can also have an antibacterial or water-wicking inner lining to keep the horse dry and protect it from eczema. Some models offer neck panels, belly flaps and tail flaps to fully protect the horse. It is also advisable to use thin chest protectors, which can be attached under the rug like "under-jumpers" to protect the skin and coat at the edge of the rug from rubbing and chafing.

There are various factors to consider when choosing the ideal rug for your horse. You should consider whether your horse is older or has health restrictions. It is important to know what the current outside temperatures are - whether it is cold or warm - and whether rain, wind or snowfall is expected. Your horse's physical condition also plays a role, especially if it is undergoing intensive training and sweating a lot or if it never sweats and has a thick coat. The size of your horse and whether it is stabled or grazing in the paddock are other aspects that should be taken into account. Based on these factors, you can then choose the right rug in terms of filling, weight and fit.

Common mistakes when blanketing and how to avoid them?

One of the most common mistakes when rugging up is choosing a rug that does not fit. This can sometimes cause chafing or pressure points or restrict the horse's freedom of movement. It is therefore important to take an objective look at your horse before buying a rug for it. Pay attention to whether the horse's chest is broad or narrow, whether the neck is high or low, and whether generous shoulder freedom is required. There are suitable blanket cuts for each of these types of horse. If your horse has a broad chest, some manufacturers offer so-called plus sizes, although the name may vary depending on the manufacturer. Some rug manufacturers also provide accessories such as chest extensions that can be included in the main rug to provide extra inches.

For horses with a low-set neck and broad chest, suitable rugs can often be found in the Western range. Highneck rugs can sometimes prevent the withers from rubbing, although there are horses on which this type of rug has the exact opposite effect and rubs off the mane. The choice often depends on the individual anatomy of the horse.

However, it is essential to ensure that the rug does not move backwards and slip behind the withers, as this can not only cause chafing but also uncomfortable pressure points. This can occur, for example, if the rug has been adjusted too loosely at the chest or if it generally does not fit the horse's cut. It is usually necessary to try out different rugs to find the manufacturer whose cut best suits your horse's individual anatomy.

The following list provides a rough guide to the right size rug for your horse:

An equally common mistake is the lack of hygiene of stable and outdoor rugs. Horse rugs need to be changed and cleaned regularly, so you should buy enough rugs early on so that a rug can be washed during the rugging period without your horse having to do without its rug for a few days.

Professional riding facilities often offer horse rug cleaning services. These services clean the rugs gently and can even renew the waterproofing. However, if you intend to clean your rugs yourself, you should follow these steps:

• Brush out thoroughly before washing.
• Remove as much hair as possible.
• If necessary, soak the blanket beforehand.
• Use a mild detergent that is gentle on the skin.
• Do not wash the blanket at too high temperatures.
• Leave the blanket to dry in the fresh air.

Practical tips for rugging horses

1. Once rugged, always rugged

At least for the year in which the decision to blanket was made! If you have decided to blanket the horse, you should stick to this choice consistently, as the horse's thermoregulation is not trained and the horse can freeze if the blanket is suddenly removed.

2. The right brightness

The amount of daylight influences the horse's coat change. This means that horses get a thick winter coat even in mild fall temperatures if the intensity and duration of daylight changes, regardless of the temperatures. The brightness and duration of daylight also influence the length and density of the coat. Early mating therefore does not necessarily prevent the coat from becoming thicker, but it does make the winter coat grow faster.

3. How thick should the blanket be?

It is advisable to first use a thinner transitional blanket for cool nights. This can also be used during the day if the temperature reaches a maximum of fifteen degrees. A thicker blanket can be considered for daytime temperatures below ten degrees. On nights when it is below five degrees, a blanket with a filling of 300 grams can be used. Shorn horses need a 400 gram filling down to minus ten degrees. Warmer rugs should only be considered for very sensitive horses and extremely cold temperatures. Be careful with unshorn horses, as they sweat easily.

4. Rain is better than sweat

If a horse sweats, be it under its winter coat at work or under a blanket that is too warm, this is more harmful than rain from above. Moisture directly on the skin causes the animal to cool down more quickly and it could possibly freeze. It is therefore important to always allow sufficient time for dry riding and changing sweat rugs.

5. Neck piece - yes or no?

A neck piece is not absolutely necessary for clipped horses, but it can help to keep the neck warm and dry. As the neck is mainly made up of muscles, keeping the neck warm also warms the rest of the body.

Conclusion: Blanketing a horse

Unfortunately, there is no universal solution that applies equally to all horses. The decision as to whether a horse should be rugged depends on various factors that should be carefully considered. Blindly rugging a horse can be more harmful than helpful, as horses naturally have efficient thermoregulation and can adapt well to different outside temperatures.

It is not uncommon for riders to cover their horses in the fall, when it gets a little cooler and people start wearing jackets again. However, the temperature at which horses feel comfortable differs from that of humans. Horses feel most comfortable at outside temperatures between 5°C and 15°C , and at this point a blanket can even be counterproductive. It is therefore crucial to always take an individual approach to blanketing horses. 

Various factors, such as the horse's age, state of health and level of training, play a role in deciding whether and how a horse should be rugged. If the decision is made to blanket, it is important to ensure that the type and filling of the blanket is appropriate for the horse's needs and circumstances. The size and fit of the rug is also very important. An ill-fitting rug can cause chafing and be painful or uncomfortable for the horse.

Finally, the regular cleaning of blankets and the re-treatment of outdoor and rain blankets with impregnation is of great importance. Only then can these blankets offer sufficient protection over a longer period of time.

If you put a blanket on your horse is therefore like many other things - a decision we have to make individually for our horse and respond to its needs.