Your first horse: costs, time and everything else you need to consider

Your first horse: costs, time and everything else you need to consider

In this article, you will find out how to recognize that you are ready for your own horse and how to find the right horse. You will also be optimally prepared for your own horse in terms of keeping, difficulties, time management and, above all, the costs you will face.

Contents

Why do you want your own horse in the first place? Is it the gallop on the stubble field or the ribbon at the show or do you long for the connection to the horse, as portrayed in countless movies? Most of the time, however, the reasons are much more emotional: the joy and ambition you feel when you have achieved something new with your horse, the closeness to nature and also the moments of happiness you feel when your horse gives you so much in return. The only thing that stops us horse people from buying a horse is usually the reality. Most people probably know that horses are a relatively expensive and time-consuming hobby. That's why you need to ask yourself a lot of questions beforehand in order to ultimately decide whether buying a horse is a good idea. That's why you'll find all the answers to your questions in this article.

Am I ready for my own horse?

To determine whether you are ready for a horse of your own, you should first and foremost already have some experience. This does not necessarily refer to riding experience, but rather to the general handling of a horse and the duties that go with it. So it makes sense if you have previously had a foster horse or a riding partner. Of course, the amount of responsibility varies greatly and is very individual. With some riding/grooming partnerships, you might look after the horse once a week for a certain price and otherwise don't have much to do with the horse or anything else. In other cases, you may well be replacing an owner completely, e.g. due to pregnancy, and therefore not only be responsible for the horse's movement, but also have to attend farrier appointments and do stable work. This option gives a future horse owner a very good taste of what it might feel like to be a horse owner. Some horse owners also make their horse available with an option to buy. This gives you the chance to try out whether the horse in question appeals to you and whether life as a horse owner is really feasible without having to make a final decision or commitment. However, if you have no previous experience of this kind, it is advisable to first look for a riding partnership where you can actively participate and get involved. Riding a school horse once a week or vacationing at a riding stable may be very nice and make you think about having your own horse, but caution is advised, because having your own horse also means having sole responsibility for a large animal - both in terms of time, as well as financial and moral responsibility.

So you're ready for a horse of your own if, in addition to riding or ground work, you also enjoy stable work, grooming, visits to the vet, making decisions, etc. and, above all, if the next points in this article don't put you off but make you look forward to having your own horse even more.

Which Horse Suits Me?

In most cases, a horse that has already been trained is suitable as a first horse. And this is actually a very important point, because it is often tempting for many people to buy a younger horse, as it is usually cheaper and still quite green behind the ears. However, this is also often a problem and you save at the wrong end. Because if you don't have the skills to train your horse yourself, which is very likely with your first horse, not only are there the potential costs of training, but a lot can also go wrong. A young horse belongs in experienced hands and, especially if you are impatient when buying your first horse and long for the many things you can then do with your horse, it is not advisable to buy a young horse that may not be ready to gallop across a stubble field straight away. The right age for the first horse is very individual. Most horses that are between 8 and 12 years old usually already have solid training and a certain routine behind them and you still have a lot of time together. More important than the age, however, is the actual level of training of a horse, because the age at which a horse is mature and out of puberty varies greatly. Robust breeds, cold-blooded horses and Arabians are usually late developers, while warmbloods, quarter horses or English thoroughbreds need a little less time. Therefore, age should only be a rough indicator. Buying a 15-year-old horse as your first horse is neither unwise nor a rarity.

You should also ask yourself what your ambitions are. Am I looking for a horse for show jumping competitions? Am I looking for a horse for leisurely cross-country rides? Or am I perhaps looking for an endurance horse for endurance or trail riding? Of course, you can theoretically do all of this with any breed of horse. However, the conformation and character of each horse breed clearly show what it is best suited to: Quarter horses are great for western disciplines; warmbloods are very capable in show jumping or dressage; Arabians are very enduring and spirited horses; Fjord horses and Haflingers are sure-footed and calm horses in cross-country - to name a few examples. Especially if you have already had contact with several horse breeds, you may be able to weigh up what appeals to you more and what appeals to you less.

Of course, the choice of horse breed also depends on body weight and height. It is more difficult for a relatively small horse to balance the rider's body and there are also limits to the weight. The 20% rule is often applied, which states that a maximum of 20% of the horse's weight (in a trained state) may be the rider's weight including saddle, clothing and other equipment. The aspect of musculature and mobility should be taken into account for both horse and rider. On the one hand, it is not enough to feed a small horse until it is overweight so that it fits purely mathematically. On the other hand, a few kilos over the 20% rule is not dramatically bad if both horse and rider are in very good condition. The rumor that some breeds, such as Icelandic, Tinker or Fjord horses, are so-called "weight carriers" is not true.

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Here is an example calculation: An Icelandic horse weighs 350 kg on average. 20% of 350 kg is 70 kg. If we subtract 10 kg from the 70 kg for a light English saddle, clothing and bridle, we arrive at a maximum rider weight of 60 kg.

As already mentioned, this also depends on the level of training. However, even in a well-trained condition, a rider should probably not weigh more than 70 kg if the horse is ridden.

It is also important to take a long-term view when looking for the right horse. The average horse lives to be 25-30 years old. It is therefore important to consider whether this horse will still suit the rider in 20 years' time. Shetland ponies, for example, are often purchased for children. But even the children eventually become too big and too heavy for these small horses, but the pony still wants to be ridden. This is why the time and effort aspect is very important in the long term. The sporting ambitions you have also need to be planned for the long term, but realistically. If you are currently at an E level in dressage and realistically intend to compete in medium (M) level dressage at some point, you should probably not just look for a horse that has the conformation for an A level at the most. Nevertheless, you have to be aware that a sport horse also wants to be moved accordingly, as this is exactly what it was bred for. So if you only have time to ride your horse twice a week, it's better to start with a riding partnership where competing is also desired.

To ensure that you don't end up with a sick horse, it is advisable to have a thorough examination carried out by an independent vet before you buy a horse. Even if you have taken all the above points into account, an illness can quickly put a spanner in the works. As with the horse's level of training, a major purchase examination is money well spent and simply offers you a degree of security.

A trainer who is an expert may be able to tell you which horse is right for you. Many trainers/riding instructors also offer to advise you when buying a horse. Especially if the riding instructor has known you for some time, he or she may know exactly what you are looking for or know of one or two suitable horses that are currently for sale. It is always advisable to have a neutral and rational person with you when looking for a horse. Often you just want to let your heart decide or you are influenced by the beautiful appearance of a horse and then possibly choose the wrong horse. Of course, you can also sell a horse again if it doesn't suit you. There is no shame in that. Nevertheless, it should always be avoided, as a move and a change of owner are always associated with a lot of stress for a horse and no horse wants to end up as a challenge cup. Perhaps you should look for a trainer you would like to work with in the long term before you buy a horse and ask them to help you find a horse.

‍Where doI buy my dream horse?

‍Ifyou are looking for an experienced and trained horse, you can find them at reputable breeders, for example. Not only do they sell young horses, but they also often sell horses that are well trained but have been rejected because they don't perform well enough for a particular show or their conformation is not suitable for higher classes. Even if a breeder is not selling a horse that is suitable for you, they often have good connections to horse owners or other breeders who have something suitable for you for sale.

Have you ever wondered what everyday life is like in a breeder's sales stable? We took a look behind the scenes at the Ligges family's sales stable. They not only breed horses for competition, but also for leisure riders.

As already mentioned, some horse trainers have one or two contacts or may be able to find you a horse from their own clientele.

However, you should be very careful with horse dealers. It is not uncommon for horses with behavioral problems or illnesses to end up with dubious horse dealers. That's why it's best to look at a few reviews on the internet beforehand or ask your friends about their experiences to make sure that you don't end up buying a horse that doesn't suit you at all.

In general, you should make sure that your ambitions match the horse presented. If you tell a breeder/horse dealer/private individual that you are a rather timid rider who would like to do a lot of rides and they then present you with a show jumper trained up to advanced level with a lot of temperament, you are probably not at the right address.

Private individuals usually advertise their horses for sale via the usual online platforms. Also at ClipMyHorse.TV breeders and horse owners advertise their sport horses in order to reach the right target group. One advantage here is that, in addition to the seller's uploaded videos, you can also view current show videos and can also determine whether the horse on offer might suit you.

There are various reasons why a horse owner sells his horse. Lack of time or a change in circumstances can be one of them. This is a good sign, especially if the advertisement is not an emergency sale. Most of these horses are actually well trained and reliable. However, you should always ask why a horse is being sold. If a horse has behavioral problems that a long-time horse owner has not been able to cope with, it will be quite difficult for a first-time owner and probably a novice rider. Terms such as "reliable horse" or "broken in" are often used in advertisements. However, caution is advised and it is recommended that you seek the support of an experienced person. For some, the term "broken in" means that the horse has been ridden three times and may even have been broken in. For others, it can mean that the horse is solid and relaxed at a walk, trot and canter with a rider. In general, a precise description of the horse and friendly contact with the current horse owner is always a good sign that the owner is honest and that you could actually find your dream horse.

When it comes to appointments for test riding, it is best to look at several horses so that you have a good comparison. Ask if you have the opportunity to pick up the horse from the field, groom and saddle it yourself. This will give you a good idea of whether the general relationship with your potential horse could work. Visit the shortlisted horses, perhaps even more often, to get a realistic impression.  

What should I consider before buying my first horse?

If you have decided to get your first horse, there are a few things to consider in addition to choosing a horse. Starting with the horse's accommodation, through the time I need for a horse, to the initial equipment I should buy for my horse.

1. do I look for a stable first or the horse first?

If you don't have the opportunity to keep a horse on your own property, the following question always arises: Do I look for a horse first or do I look for a place in a stable first? And the answer is very clear. You should look for a stable first, because how your horse is kept has a significant influence on the health of your horse, the training and also your relationship with each other. Unfortunately, finding a suitable stable is not always easy, as there are many factors that influence the choice of stable, in addition to the availability of space:

  • Type of housing and exercise: open stable, meadow housing, (paddock) stall housing, active stable, etc.
  • Training facilities: Riding hall, riding arena, riding area, etc.
  • Work share: self-catering, half board, full board
  • Travel time to the stable
  • Feeding: hay, haylage, 24/7 roughage, 2 roughage meals a day, etc.
  • Amount of the monthly stable rent

It is important to set the priorities correctly, because the first priority should never be training opportunities or the amount of work, regardless of your ambitions and time available. While you actively work with the horse for 1-2 hours a day, the horse spends another 22 hours a day in the stable. This should ensure a solid form of husbandry and if there is a choice of several stables on the shortlist, all other factors can be taken into account. Ultimately, it makes no sense to keep your horse in a stable where there is only a separate meadow that can only be used for a quarter of the year, because then you won't be doing justice to your horse's urge to move. Don't base your choice of stable on whether friends of yours are at the same stable, but read scientific articles and books to find out which stabling is right for your horse. Incidentally, some stables also differ between summer and winter stabling. As soon as you have found a suitable stable, you can start looking for the right horse or make a final purchase decision, safe in the knowledge that you won't have to stable your horse for an interim period because no suitable stable was available. A change of ownership and especially a move is pure stress for a horse and should therefore be avoided as far as possible. Many horse sellers actually ask about the horse's future housing.

2. how much time should I have available for my own horse?

The time you spend at the stable each day varies greatly and depends on the amount of work at the stable and the type of training. Being a self-carer means that you do all the tasks yourself, such as feeding and mucking out, as well as pasture maintenance, repair work, manure disposal, hay delivery, etc., or share them with stable mates. Basically, however, you are also responsible for everything yourself and therefore spend a lot of time at the stable without having moved the horse. In contrast, there is also full board, where all the above-mentioned tasks are included in the price and you only have to come to the stables to move your horse. In half board, everything is usually covered except for the stable work. However, this varies from boarding facility to boarding facility. Basically, you can plan approx. 1 - 1.5 hours for stable work, while sometimes you only spend 30 minutes in the arena to move the horse and on some days you have planned a 4-hour ride. On average, however, you can plan around 2-3 hours a day, depending on the work involved. Of course, a horse doesn't have to be moved every day. However, you should be aware that a horse's need for exercise must be covered in order to keep your horse healthy - even if the horse is outside all day. With 3 hard training sessions a week, you can maintain your horse's muscle mass and training condition. Your horse will only build up muscle once it has been worked 4 times a week.

If you are ill or go on vacation, you will of course have to find a replacement. At least with full boarding, you don't have to worry about looking after your horse. However, your horse will still want to be moved if you are ill or on vacation for a week. Of course, you can also look for stable help. Especially during the vacation season, there are many students looking for a vacation job.

What costs will I incur if I have my own horse?

Owning a horse is quite an expensive hobby. However, there are also big differences in the price ranges depending on the region and type of keeping. This chapter therefore lists one-off, annual, semi-annual and monthly costs, while several keeping scenarios are run through. You will then find a cost checklist that summarizes everything and can give you an average monthly cost that you should plan for your horse. The frequently asked question of whether you need a horse trailer is also answered.

1. one-off costs

The one-off costs include the costs for the horse itself plus the costs for the initial equipment. Initial purchases are the things that you should buy in addition to the horse in order to care for your horse and also to be able to work. Here is a short sample list that can help you to get an overview of the basic equipment and the associated costs. You can find equestrian equipment online or in your local equestrian store. However, it is better not to buy just anything, but make sure that the items are suitable for your work and, above all, for the horse and get good advice. All costs are approximate and can vary greatly. Below is a list of the initial equipment and the approximate prices:

  • Halter and lead rope: For leading and tethering 15€
  • Feed bowl/bucket: For supplementary/mineral feed € 7
  • Sweat rug: To prevent your horse from catching a cold after training on cold days when it has sweated 50€
  • Grooming box including brushes and hoof scraper 45€
  • Small stable first-aid kit for minor emergencies (bandages, expectorant, stomach sedative, etc.) 50€

Work equipment:

  • Cavesson 200€ /knotted halter 40€ for ground work and lunging
  • Rope 40€ /Longe 20€ for ground work and lunging
  • Saddle: Fitted by a competent saddler 3000€
  • Saddle pad (western pad 200€ / saddle pad 60€)
  • Saddle girth 100€
  • Snaffle or working bridle with reins 150€
  • Dressage whip for riding and ground work 13€

That adds up to €710 plus around €3000 for a new saddle. However, the price of a saddle varies greatly, as you can get a used dressage saddle for around €600-1000. For a western saddle, you usually have to spend a little more money. As a new saddle often outlives the horse, this investment is worthwhile. An unsuitable saddle can cause the horse pain and have a major impact on its training performance and well-being. Another factor that should not be underestimated is how suitable the saddle is for you. The body shape of a rider is also different and so an unsuitable saddle can also make you sit badly or unfavorably.

However, the biggest cost factor in the one-off costs is usually the horse itself. For a solidly trained horse from a private dealer, you should expect to pay at least €6,000 and prefer to spend a little more when it comes to training. The price depends not only on the training, but also on the horse's conformation and genetics. The more sporting ambitions you have, the higher the price will usually be for a horse that can be successful at competitions.

Another question that is often asked is whether you should buy a horse trailer. There are many reasons for buying a horse trailer. The most important reason is probably that if the horse gets colic, for example, you can quickly drive to the equine clinic to have the horse treated as quickly as possible. However, if you have ambitions to compete, you will probably also need a trailer in order to travel to competitions regularly. Other reasons could be that a trailer gives you the opportunity to attend various courses or ride out at other locations or take part in a trail ride. However, a horse trailer is also a big investment and requires a car with a trailer coupling that can pull the load of the trailer and the horse. You should expect to pay at least €7,000 for a new horse trailer for 2 horses. However, there are also cheaper used ones. If you only need a trailer occasionally to attend a course or go for a ride with a friend, you can also rent a trailer from various trailer centers. Nevertheless, you should always have the option of transporting the horse to a clinic in the event of illness. If you have stabled your horse at a boarding facility, you may have the option of borrowing a trailer from your stable mates or the boarding operator in an emergency. If you don't have this option, it would be advisable to think about buying a horse trailer.

2. annual (or semi-annual costs)

In addition to the one-off and monthly costs, there are also irregular costs for farrier, vet and other services that occur once or more often within a year. The costs listed here are totaled up per month in the checklist.

The most frequent service is probably a visit to the farrier every 4-7 weeks. How long the treatment period is and how much money you should budget for it depends on whether your horse runs barehoof or wears shoes. If your horse runs barehoof, i.e. without horseshoes, your horse's hooves should be trimmed every 4-5 weeks. You pay around €40 per bare hoof treatment. If your horse needs horseshoes, the farrier should come every 6-7 weeks for a trim. Sometimes the old shoes can be reused. But most of the time you actually need new shoes. You pay around €110 per shoeing with new shoes. Normally a horse does not need horseshoes. However, there are exceptions, such as orthopaedic shoeing for a tendon injury or slider shoes if you want to take part in reining competitions. However, if your horse has too much hoof wear, you can also use hoof boots, which do not damage your horse's hooves like a shoe and can be put on and taken off as required. There are now even hoof boots to which studs can be attached for show jumping on the grass. 4 hoof boots cost approx. 460€, last an average of 3 years and are therefore cheaper than shoeing.

Vet fees for vaccinations and worming are another cost item. Tetanus should be vaccinated every 2 years and influenza once a year. If you take part in competitions in Germany, you must be vaccinated against influenza every six months and also against the equine herpes virus every six months. You should budget around €100-150 for a visit to the vet for the influenza/tetanus combination vaccination. Approx . 170€ should be planned for a visit to the vet for the six-monthly influenza/herpes combination vacc ination.

In addition to the vaccinations, you also pay for the horse to be wormed. It is advisable to have a fecal sample taken at least twice a year and then choose the appropriate worming treatment. Having a fecal sample tested for worms costs around €40. A worming treatment is usually around 20€.

For your horse's dental health, you should make an appointment with an equine dentist once a year. They will check your horse's teeth for hooks or root infections. The horse usually has to be sedated so that the teeth can be treated with a grinder. A treatment including sedation costs around 180€.

To keep your horse healthy in the long term, you should also make an appointment with an equine physiotherapist/equine osteopath once a year to release any blockages and adjust your horse's exercise program. A good equine physiotherapist will look at your horse holistically and take into account your horse's posture, feeding and movement. At best, you will be given one or two mobilization exercises to support your horse physically. In some cases, a dry needling treatment is also carried out or kinesiotape is used. A treatment costs around 170€.

You should also have a saddler come once a year to check the fit of your saddle. In the case of English saddles, the saddles can be padded or adjusted in the chamber width on site or in the saddler's workshop. This is only possible to a limited extent with Western saddles. An unsuitable saddle can cause a lot of damage and should therefore be adjusted regularly. The saddle has an enormous influence on growth, satisfaction and performance in training, especially for young horses that are growing and for horses that are developing muscles and will undergo major physical changes. A saddle fitting costs around €100 , depending on what needs to be done to the saddle.

Another important point is an annual appointment with an independent feed consultant. After taking a medical history of your horse's situation, they can tell you exactly which supplementary feed and which mineral feed is best for your horse so that certain deficiencies and resulting illnesses do not occur in the first place. The feed consultant is often a point where money is often saved. However, an annual feed consultation can often save veterinary costs for minor ailments such as coughs, metabolic disorders, digestive problems, etc., if preventative action is taken together with a feed consultant. The feed advisor usually includes the analysis values of your roughage (usually hay) and then looks at where deficiencies and surpluses can be found. The analysis of your rough age for the values important for the feed consultation at the Chamber of Agriculture costs approx. 90€. A one-off initial consultation with an independent feed consultant costs between €120 and €160. The annual recalculation is €60.

3. monthly costs

The monthly costs include the stable rent, insurance premiums, but also costs for additional feed and money that you should put aside just in case, as well as costs for (riding) lessons or even riding your horse. Stable rents in particular vary quite a lot depending on the type of stabling and the region. In some cases, you may pay half or even double the stable rent in larger cities as opposed to rural regions. If you want to stable your horse in full board in a boarding facility, which includes expensive features such as an indoor riding arena or, as is often the case in active stables, automatic feeders or time-controlled hay racks, the stable rent can amount to €300-500 . In rural areas, however, you can also rent a nice open stable with a good riding arena or a box without an indoor arena for around €200 if you also do some of the stable work. If you are self-catering, you usually pay relatively less and have more flexibility or can adapt your stable exactly to the needs of your horses. However, you will also bear more responsibility, have to plan vacations very carefully and have significantly more work than in full boarding. Costs that you have to factor in as a self-caterer are the possible lease, hay, bedding, pasture maintenance, manure disposal, etc. You should expect to pay €200 per month.

As a horse needs at least mineral feed in addition to roughage, and in most cases protein and possibly energy requirements also need to be supplemented, you should budget around €30 per month for good supplementary feed.

Another monthly cost is insurance premiums. Horse liability insurance should be taken out in any case. This is not a legal obligation. However, it can quickly happen that one horse injures another or you accidentally hit a car, damage someone else's trailer or the horse simply steps on an expensive object. This is where horse liability insurance comes in, which costs no more than €10 per month. Another important insurance is equine surgery insurance. You should take this out so that you don't get into financial difficulties if your horse does need an operation. Especially in old age, it may be that a tooth needs to be pulled or the horse needs a chip or a quick operation for colic. Such a colic operation can quickly run into the five-figure range, which you then have to pay for. The monthly costs for at least one premium tariff amount to €50-60.

Despite insurance and prevention, it makes sense to set up a savings account for the horse and put aside €50-100 per month. It can always happen that the vet has to come because the horse has been injured or is not feeling well. You should take care of this in advance so that you don't hesitate too long afterwards when it comes to the vet's advice. Otherwise the problems can often get worse.

If you own a horse, you should also take (riding) lessons. Even if you think you are an experienced rider, you should always remember that even the best Olympic riders have a trainer at their side. Communication problems with the horse can occur from time to time and especially if you are planning to progress as a rider, lessons are essential and will keep you motivated. You should budget €180 (€4 x 45) for weekly lessons for ground work or riding work. That's a lot of money, but it's definitely a good investment if you find a suitable trainer/riding instructor. You should take lessons at least every 2 weeks to really see progress. For acute problems or for competition riders/ambitious leisure riders, a weekly cycle makes the most sense. In the case of acute problems, breaking in young horses or a temporary absence, e.g. due to pregnancy, riding can also be very useful. Riding does not always mean that you have to stable your horse with the rider, but there are also many trainers who offer mobile riding and come to your stable. For a full ride (5-6 days/week), professional trainers charge around €800-1000 per month. This is of course for a certain period of time.

4. how much does it cost to own a horse: the monthly cost checklist

In this checklist you will find all monthly costs and all irregular costs calculated on a monthly basis in a list so that you can estimate how much money you should calculate per month before you make the dream of owning your own horse come true.

Expenditure Frequency Amount (€)
Stable rent monthly 30€
Supplementary feed monthly 10€
Horse liability insurance monthly 60€
Horse OP insurance monthly 50€
Money for the horse savings account monthly 180€
(Riding) lessons 4x per month monthly 40€
Hoof trimming bare hoof every 4 weeks monthly 40€
Influenza/tetanus vaccination once a year (tetanus every 2 years) irregular 14€
Influenza/herpes vaccination once a year (only as a competition rider) irregular 5€
Fecal test and worming 2x per year irregular 15€
Horse dentist treatment 1x per year irregular 14€
Equine physiotherapist treatment 1x per year irregular 8€
Saddle fitting 1x per year irregular 10€
Independent feed advice once a year irregular 10€
Total per month 747€ thereof 670€ fixed costs

Should I get my child their own horse?

Many children dream of having their own horse and would love to spend the whole day at the stables. But a horse also means a lot of responsibility and a child definitely cannot and should not bear this. If you as a parent are not interested in horses and have not really looked into the subject, it is better to look for a riding or foster partner for your child. This also gives parents the chance to get a little closer to horses themselves. However, as the health and welfare of a horse depends on many small factors, a minor cannot be solely responsible for a living being. However, if you are a parent with an interest and experience in horses, having your own horse might be a great opportunity for your child. Especially if you have a horse yourself, riding together with your child is a great way to pass the time. Nevertheless, it is important to note that an adult must always be present while the child spends time with the horse. Handling the horse must be supervised because children, especially at a young age, may have a tendency towards gross motor skills as they are not yet fully developed physically. The journey to the stable should also not be underestimated. In addition, as mentioned above, the choice of horse also plays a major role. As parents, you often don't want to expect your child to have a horse with a height of 1.80 m and buy a pony instead.

ClipMyHorse.TV accompanied the Ligges family in their search for the right pony for their daughter Klara daughter Klara. Watch the video to find out which criteria were important for Klara and the Ligges family:

However, if the child is too big or too heavy for this at some point, the pony must continue to be moved and encouraged. It would therefore be advisable to find a balance. For example, Haflinger horses or large German riding ponies can sometimes be ridden by adults. Quarter horses also only have an average height of 1.50m. Welsh ponies or Shetland ponies are not recommended unless they are also used for other long-term activities, such as carriage driving.

What difficulties or problems could arise with your own horse?

Anyone who owns a horse must be aware that not everything can always run smoothly. Especially if you are used to riding school horses or reliable riding partners, there is a big difference to owning your own horse, because you have everything in your own hands. This has many advantages, but can also be a disadvantage if you are a little helpless at the beginning. You should therefore consider taking regular lessons early on so that you and your new horse can build up a relationship and you can achieve your riding goals. If possible, don't wait until problems arise. Even if a horse went off-road well during the test and with the previous owners, that doesn't mean it will do the same with you. Uncertainty plays a pretty big role here. But if you work on the little things right from the start, you will have a lot of fun together. If you have bought a young horse and it has not yet been broken in or the horse lacks routine, you should also consider riding it. Even if you think you can manage this on your own, you have to admit that this is rather unrealistic as a first-time owner. The sooner you ask for help, the fewer problems you will have with your horse. Always educate yourself with books or online webinars. Perhaps attend one or two courses for further inspiration. Not only will this keep you motivated, but it will also broaden your own perspective on horse training and horse handling and create a network of horse people who can help you, but who may also have or have had the same problems as you. This will also show you that you are not alone with your problems. Having your first horse is also a life-changing challenge, but you should see it as a positive enrichment. 

Your first horse - the checklist

You have managed to read this long article on the subject of your first own horse and have already gained an impression of the positive and perhaps also negative aspects of having your own horse. We have put together a small checklist for you here, with the most important points you should think about if you want to buy your own horse. You can easily download this practical checklist and save it or print it out. This way, you have the most important points at a glance and can simply tick them off to see what you already have, what you still need to think about or what you might still need. This will make buying your own horse a little more relaxed and you won't lose sight of one or two little things.

A checklist for your first horse, what you need to have, what you need to consider before you buy a horse. And further interesting information
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Sandra ManatosClinicsMore FROM CMH.TV

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